Weathering can really make otherwise clean soldiers seem a part of the rough trials and tribulations in the fray of battle.
Grime
Firstly, warriors and machines may get coated in the grime of battle, here's how I weathered a soul grinder leg for a base.
I used a Agrax Earthshade wash applied where i wanted a streak of grime, then applied the effects paint typhus corrosion, it's very quick and quite effective.
Textiles
Whilst metals will often be darkened when worn out, cloth can often become lightened were its become frayed, or where dust / dried mud deposits, the bottom of capes / elbows / knees can often be made a lighter brown compared with the rest of the fabric (as in this photo of Jayden Howell's model)
For blending these close colours, see - "Handy Painting" my previous post.
Rust
Powders
Weathering powders are often a good easy way to go for rust, they capture the dry texture of rust.
If you plan to game with the model, you'll need to seal in the powder with a matte varnish, although it can dull the effect a bit.
The base coat for the powders to go will effect the brightness / how fresh the rust looks.
What appearance works for you is a matter of preference, hopefully these photos will give an idea what different combinations can achieve:
Cannon done with Forgeworld Rust Powder over warlock bronze base coat, sealed with purity seal.
Rust powder over silver base coat, not sealed with any varnish.
Blue!
Whilst iron rusts orange, copper and some other metals will develop verdigris, green-ish blue, whilst no metals i know of tarnish blue AND orange, sometimes with nurgle models i use both just for the contrast.
In general, i'd say add medium to a bluish green if its on a flat surface. If you're planning to add verdigris to recesses, Nihilakh Oxide is great.
Well, that concludes this post, there could be a weathering techniques part 2, if anyone's interested?
Definitely up for a part 2.
ReplyDeleteHave you had much experience with powders? I would love to have more info on them.
I'll try to make the part two sometime in the next week.
ReplyDeleteI've had a lot of experience with two forgeworld powders, namely rust and aged rust.
I've heard MiG powders are good too. You sort of want to drybrush / stipple them onto a surface, then to seal it with a clear varnish (I use purity seal although army painter's dull coat I've heard a lot of good reviews for)
There are darker brown and khaki pigments / powders offten good for surrounding dirt tracks on tanks.
Mostly, experiment eoth different powders, says of applying and also basecoat colours.
What Happened to part 2?
ReplyDeletePart 2 is uploaded now
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