tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65668383189435728492024-03-13T11:27:24.992-07:00Equinox PaintingOlimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-82242792278152090642015-11-08T14:43:00.000-08:002015-11-08T14:43:28.728-08:00Khorne Exalted DeathbringerSo I was going to paint him for eBay but I ended up spending a lot longer on him than planned so he turned out nicer than a quick job to auction. In other news, I'm accepting commissions again!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xplhmi6WjBc/Vj_ONIOpTLI/AAAAAAAAAcE/VhOvDSwNXjU/s1600/qaDh7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xplhmi6WjBc/Vj_ONIOpTLI/AAAAAAAAAcE/VhOvDSwNXjU/s400/qaDh7.jpeg" width="297" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YEjzJUGXnD0/Vj_PFQ7kd4I/AAAAAAAAAcQ/5St87bsAKx8/s1600/DSCF5730-1%2B%2528dragged%2529.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YEjzJUGXnD0/Vj_PFQ7kd4I/AAAAAAAAAcQ/5St87bsAKx8/s400/DSCF5730-1%2B%2528dragged%2529.tiff" width="277" /></a></div>
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This was my first model from the new GW Age of Sigmar range, a lot of fun to paint and hopefully I'll be picking up some more of the Khorne Bloodhound in the future.</div>
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C&C welcome as well as any questions about the techniques used :)</div>
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-27026771968495507132015-09-18T09:50:00.003-07:002015-09-18T09:54:57.629-07:00Mierce Miniature and Scale75 Paint Reviews!I've moved to university halls in Exeter, and set up my paints and miniature space there so I've had a chance to start trying some new paints and models I took with me.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G9zNfEHMMNk/Vfw7r9X_t_I/AAAAAAAAAZ8/eyDjAKnlIN4/s1600/BLG40017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G9zNfEHMMNk/Vfw7r9X_t_I/AAAAAAAAAZ8/eyDjAKnlIN4/s400/BLG40017.jpg" width="310" /></a></div>
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This model I'm currently working on to represent my Dungeons and Dragons character is from <a href="http://mierce-miniatures.com/">mierce miniatures</a> and the detail is superb! (The unpainted photo doesn't do it justice) </div>
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The resin they use definitely isn't as brittle as some (yes, found out by accidentally dropping this model). Also, the mould lines were there but minimal and I found zero air bubbles in the resin. </div>
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The only potential downside to the model is the sculpted in detail such as veins and micro-scratches in the metal, having these sculpted in can mess with painters who use a lot of glazes who may prefer to paint on veins or battle damage afterwards. </div>
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I will be sure to look at Mierce in the future when sourcing models for my games.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P3cdHlmyovM/Vfw4g1pB7FI/AAAAAAAAAZw/FuSQnAJWZMQ/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P3cdHlmyovM/Vfw4g1pB7FI/AAAAAAAAAZw/FuSQnAJWZMQ/s640/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="466" /></a></div>
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The axe head is almost finished, just some glazes and weathering powder to go, however, I've taken this picture before hand to show just the painting I have done using the <a href="http://www.scale75.com/">Scale75</a> NMM paint set.</div>
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I really like these paints and I think the result looks pretty good too!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USI7380HwjM/Vfw_6Oxw6DI/AAAAAAAAAaU/WK_Y9lIkT50/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USI7380HwjM/Vfw_6Oxw6DI/AAAAAAAAAaU/WK_Y9lIkT50/s400/FullSizeRender%2B2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'll start with the negatives; first is the bottles. The dropper bottles easily get clogged, and paint comes out very slowly until the clog dislodges and the paint spurts VERY fast. When learning this the hard way I lost a fair amount of paint and got paint all over the table, this wasn't an issue as it cleaned off - the issue would be if that went on a model I'd spent hours painting.</div>
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The good thing about these paints are their consistency, the white doesn't go chalky and adding water won't cause them to separate, they're very compliant for <a href="http://equinoxpainting.blogspot.co.uk/2014/12/blending-styles-and-how-to.html">glazing, wet blending and two brush blending.</a></div>
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The other feature to note is how matte these colours are; which means everything will show. </div>
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The negative: layers aren't applied smoothly brush strokes will be more obvious than with Games Workshop paints for example. The positive: they can also give a really nice crisp finish to a painted area.</div>
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Overall I'd also recommend the scale75 paint range, but with the caveat that they're for the patient painter, if you just want to get an army done fast they might not be the best tool for the job.</div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-53937408182478518892015-08-16T16:21:00.000-07:002015-11-08T14:14:52.532-08:00Vampire Count Necromancer ShowcaseI recently finished this necromancer for a painting competition at my local gaming store - possibly for the last time at that store! In four weeks I begin university, I don't know what that will mean for my hobby and whether I still do commissions - but I could end up having more or less time than I do currently, anyway - I can evaluate that after freshers week.<br />
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Without rambling too much, here's the model - as always any questions or criticisms: comment bellow and I'll try to answer them :)<br />
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WIP:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D-gx8pnKcEI/VdEas6HuvwI/AAAAAAAAAZM/y3wHqwMtlt0/s1600/0f86385eecf2288d57d97574f54cc980_57973.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D-gx8pnKcEI/VdEas6HuvwI/AAAAAAAAAZM/y3wHqwMtlt0/s640/0f86385eecf2288d57d97574f54cc980_57973.png" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-31746009399828266152015-05-08T13:41:00.002-07:002015-05-08T13:47:10.641-07:00Khorne Red SkinI've been painting the riders skin of this bloodcrusher and thought I would share the scheme and some tips for applying it.<br />
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First a basecoat of 1:1 mix of khorne red and abaddon black, then I mixed the same colours with extra black, added extra water and washed this in the recesses. Here the important thing is just to cover the recesses, if it goes over onto to surrounding flesh - no problem as this isn't a neat stage.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7_OyZgLhec/VU0Woj-TFwI/AAAAAAAAAWw/bGG94HDrMTA/s1600/IMG_3158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7_OyZgLhec/VU0Woj-TFwI/AAAAAAAAAWw/bGG94HDrMTA/s400/IMG_3158.JPG" width="347" /></a></div>
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Next I used a 2:1 mix of khorne red to abaddon black, I used a medium sized brush and added only a bit of water to the mix so it flows but also stays controlled. I applied this mix everywhere other than the recesses, which leaves dark lines in-between to define the muscles. If you do get this colour in the recesses between muscles, correct it using the previous wash mix.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BmZy36zk6dQ/VU0WovZ6Z5I/AAAAAAAAAXA/qdbrFfSGEvg/s1600/IMG_3162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BmZy36zk6dQ/VU0WovZ6Z5I/AAAAAAAAAXA/qdbrFfSGEvg/s400/IMG_3162.JPG" width="393" /></a></div>
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After this I started the first of two highlight layers, I used pure khorne red and painted this on the upper most areas and edges of muscles, try to leave some of the previous colour showing through. Any mistakes can be corrected with using one of the previous mixes. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LCIlr9tGpi8/VU0WpMcc2gI/AAAAAAAAAXE/MO6m3zG3XIQ/s1600/IMG_3165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LCIlr9tGpi8/VU0WpMcc2gI/AAAAAAAAAXE/MO6m3zG3XIQ/s400/IMG_3165.JPG" width="382" /></a></div>
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The final highlight is blood red from the old GW paint range (evil sunz scarlet in the new range is equivalent). I thinned this with some lahmian medium to stop the highlight effect from being too stark for the flesh, then applied this in thin lines around the outermost edges of muscles. After this I went back for a fair amount of correction with khorne red.</div>
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Lastly I painted the bumps of the daemons skin, for most of them I just used lugganath orange, except on larger areas such as the back, for the lower half I used lugganath orange mixed with a bit of red, and then pure lugganath orange for the upper half. I did this to try to show how light would fall on the model from above.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p598ekWFzlo/VU0WrpsxshI/AAAAAAAAAXU/o070fu4cu4M/s1600/IMG_3244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p598ekWFzlo/VU0WrpsxshI/AAAAAAAAAXU/o070fu4cu4M/s400/IMG_3244.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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I'm not sure how clear this was about placing colours, so although this looks dodgy compared to on a model, it should illustrate where I would place the various colours on a muscle:</div>
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So that is how I painted the skin on that bloodletter, although this same technique with different colours could be used for painting any colour skin, particularly high contrast non human skin like Orks!</div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-55450646175998828972015-05-06T23:15:00.006-07:002015-05-07T12:28:40.060-07:00Bloodcrusher Red Metal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UERW4lIHk_k/VUsA8_8sr8I/AAAAAAAAAVk/bMOoIs7-djk/s1600/FullSizeRender%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UERW4lIHk_k/VUsA8_8sr8I/AAAAAAAAAVk/bMOoIs7-djk/s400/FullSizeRender%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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For painting the red armour on this bloodcrusher the stages are all quite quick and easy, there's no detailed highlighting involved as the shadows build the contrast.<br />
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First a basecoat of GW ledbelcher:<br />
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Then take GW runefang steel and wet-brush over the basecoat. What I mean by a wet brush is like the more common dry brush technique, except you don't wipe the paint off of your brush before moving it rapidly over the uppermost areas of the metal. Doesn't have to be too neat at this stage!<br />
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Wash with Agrax Earthshade<br />
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Wash with Carroburg Crimson<br />
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Next I used tamiya clear red paint and thinned it with isopropyl alcohol (as water makes the paint congeal) I applied this is two thinner coats, as not ensure it didn't go down too thick and block up being able to see the previous shading stages.<br />
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From here adding the surrounding details helps make the red pop more. </div>
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Hope this was useful!</div>
<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-88217521429567148012015-05-06T07:52:00.002-07:002015-05-06T07:52:52.071-07:00An UpdateAs exams draw near I've been trying to find the time for painting, it's certainly been a while since a post. Although I have gotten through a lot of half projects and worked on a few tricks behind some techniques such as OSL (which making things appear to glow from a light source).<br />
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Here's a few images of two things Ive painted, to be followed first by an OSL guide tomorrow, then after a speed blending article, and some product reviews.<br />
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-59309915030141140082015-03-09T12:58:00.003-07:002015-03-09T12:58:40.589-07:00Harlequin Wraithguard ShowcaseI've got some of the new harlequin models so before I started, I tested some scheme ideas on this eldar wraithguard.<br />
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I didn't worry so much about trying to make the detail and diamonds perfect but instead focused on getting a good feel for the colours and textures I wanted to use.<br />
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If you're interested in any of the techniques I've used, leave a comment and I can upload how-to article(s) covering them later this week!<br />
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-28517340173838111102015-01-04T13:18:00.002-08:002015-01-04T13:18:58.771-08:00Not Just A Painter!After a long time of just painting with a game every couple of months, I'm now starting wargaming properly again, learning the rules for warhammer fantasy.<br />
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As a start I've been switching my nurgle daemons onto square bases and also painted up these guys:<br />
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I wanted to find a scheme that could look above standard tabletop, without taking far too long.</div>
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At about 2 hours a model (not including banners / base extra items) its not too bad and hopefully I'll be able to get a decent sized painted force.</div>
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The techniques are a bit tricky to explain, but I have work in progress images and if anyones interested I'll definitely attempt making a how to article!</div>
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In other news, for my most recent commission I've been making some Highland bases:</div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-9361532047155529522014-12-29T00:41:00.000-08:002014-12-29T00:41:00.252-08:00Projects At Equinox PaintingI've had a lot of free time for painting recently and have three projects to talk about, one just complete yesterday, the other ongoing diorama, and also a soon to commence kilted commission!<br />
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The project just completed was 23 Troopers / Flame troopers from <a href="http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/Miniatures-of-the-North/Tox-Troopers">Anvil</a> and a forge world <a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/The_Horus_Heresy/Mechanicum/Mechanicum_HQ/MAGOS_DOMINUS_WITH_RAD_CLEANSER.html">Magos Dominus</a>, these are to be imperial mutants and used in 40k games as summoned daemons. Check out <a href="http://theimperialpatrol.blogspot.co.nz/2014/12/demon-project-complete.html">Jayden's Blog</a> for a full description of these mutants.<br />
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<b>Current Project</b></div>
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I had a lonely painted wych in my cabinet, and a spare painted burgle lord, so when I was painting a reaver jet bike and a plague toad I had an idea for a diorama. On a swamp watery base of drowned skulls and daemon & dark elder heads, theres a plague toad with its tongue wrapped around the bike about to crunch it up, whilst the escaped rider is jumping off of the tail, gun poised to fight the toad's rider.</div>
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Here most models are still in WIP, and everything is barely held together by objects not stuck so far:</div>
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I think with some proper time put into making the components fit in together, i'm hoping it will work out well.</div>
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The next project is a squad I have been commissioned to do, and is Scottish sic-fi veterans, each<b> </b>having lost an arm replaced by a robotic limb. Im being sent the pieces to make these over the next couple of months mostly from Victoria miniatures and Anvil Industries. </div>
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First I'll be doing the highland bases, so expect those soon!</div>
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-37354592985196725522014-12-24T01:14:00.001-08:002014-12-24T01:15:41.886-08:00Tox Troopers as Imperial Summoned Lesser Daemons CommissionOne of two of these units complete, and the other not far behind meaning this entire imperial daemon commission in nearly complete!<br />
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The big bit of painting these models was the glazing on the red cloaks and edge highlighting on every surface and the lines running across the armour. After painting the other two units I've found pretty efficient ways to do the rust weapons, ooze tubes and green glow.<br />
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Let me know if theres a technique or feature of these you'd like to see an article on, or if you'd like to get your own models commissioned!<br />
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-77449563114072016992014-12-18T15:36:00.003-08:002014-12-18T15:38:32.390-08:00Blending: Styles and How To<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
I've been wanting to do a post on blending for a while, since it plays a large part of almost all of my display level miniatures. </div>
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Firstly, blending is making a smooth transition from one colour to another, from a dark colour to a lighter version or it could be between hues e.g. purple to green.</div>
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I think for many painters it's their style of blending that makes their work recognisable to them, for example <a href="https://www.google.com.au/search?q=james+wappel+gallery&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=VX6RVLb_MM7s8AW4mYCwBg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=881#imgdii=_"><b>James Wappel's</b></a> shaded basecoats / wet-blending give big variations in hue, whilst <a href="http://www.thirdeyenuke.com/gallery-2"><b>ThirdEyeNuke's</b></a> realistic dirty and dark style is recognisable by the high contrast blends in value (light to dark) close to grey colours.</div>
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For my commission work I tend to do varying types or blending for whatever's required, but for my own display painting I've been trying to identify a style of my own but more on that later. Before that I'll outline the How To's of most of the types of blending I use.<br />
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First, <b>wet blending</b>: (WIP reaver)<br />
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Take two paints either unthinned or with a small amount of drying retarder. Place a band of one colour one side of where the blend is to be, then next to it place another band of the colour to be blended to, and whilst both are still wet on the model, take slightly damp brush and using small side to side motions to blend between the two colours.</div>
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Instead of just blending the dark burgle to bright blue, to make the transition smoother I wet blended a dark purple to a dark blue, then the dark blue to a brighter blue.</div>
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For purple to blue wet blending works and can be quite a fast technique with not too many steps involved, but when the colour change becomes more dramatic, for example a dark red to bright green, wet blending can be a much harder method to get a smooth blend.</div>
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Most of the blending on this riptide was wet blending:<br />
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<b>Two Brush Blending</b> (Spiritseer)</div>
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Bit of a misnomer as I don't use two brushes for the technique, but thats the way it is traditionally done. The paint is thinned with just a bit of water (or medium) to the consistency of what you'd normally use to paint a layer of a colour. The second brush is then damp, not saturated, and the small amount of water is used to drag paint out from the bounds a bit onto the other colour, smoothing the blend.<br />
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Instead of using a second brush I tend to just quickly wash out my first brush. Good thing about this technique is it takes no planning, unlike wet blending where you have to lay out the colours, with this, I sometime just apply a layer and if I think the line between colours is a bit harsh i'll just get a bit of water on my brush and quickly do a rough wet blend to smooth things out.<br />
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<b>Glazing: </b>(Eldar Warlock Blade)<br />
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Essentially thin your paints with water or medium or flow improver or a mix of those. For quick work I don't worry and just use water, most of the time I'll use acrylic medium, and occasionally flow improver for painting small areas. For testing consistency I use the<b> skin test</b> (also see <b><a href="http://equinoxpainting.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/handy-painting.html">handy painting</a> </b>article for <b>smudge blending) </b><br />
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Next, apply a thin glaze at the part you want a different colour, let it dry, apply another glaze further towards the different colour part, let it dry, repeat until the colour build up sufficiently. The good thing with this technique is less thinned paints will build up the colour quicker for a fast paint, whilst very thinned glazes can give seamless blends. Thats where it's necessary to experiment with the effects you get with different consistencies of glazes.<br />
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This technique doesn't rely on paints on the mini still being wet so you can come back to blending in another colour later, e.g. this green glow after the fabric was painted:<br />
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<b>Layering:</b> (Tau Ethereal)<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qMAoVBp9FB0/VJNbKq-QXeI/AAAAAAAAAPU/X80zkMUriV8/s1600/photo%2B3.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qMAoVBp9FB0/VJNbKq-QXeI/AAAAAAAAAPU/X80zkMUriV8/s1600/photo%2B3.PNG" height="190" width="400" /></a></div>
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The purple and black fabric on this model are layered. The number of layers is what makes the blend smooth. So for starting with a black / purple, i applied an opaque layer over the cape, mixed in a bit more purple, and applied a layer everywhere but the deepest recesses. a bit more purple, then applied more towards the highlight areas. then repeated over many many layers each slightly different from the last applied further towards the parts that are going to be that bright purple colour. The same process was done using grey instead of purple for the black robes.<br />
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I tend to find layering works very well with dark colours whilst i'll use it a lot less for brighter blends.<br />
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<b>Feathering [Or at least how I do it]:</b> (Eldar Weapon Platform WIP)<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MMywV18Gvxc/VJNcyqK4xJI/AAAAAAAAAPg/RFivGWtanOU/s1600/photo%2B4.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MMywV18Gvxc/VJNcyqK4xJI/AAAAAAAAAPg/RFivGWtanOU/s1600/photo%2B4.PNG" height="291" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=484340208336878&set=vb.469545329816366&type=2&theater">Video on how I painted the weapon platform</a><br />
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The above is an example of a very smooth use of feathering, quite often though i'll use it with far less thin paint, just using the dragging jagged motion to blend, as on this weapon:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-86ozDrAO1V8/VJNc46oCJVI/AAAAAAAAAPo/IE5I5cK3G-M/s1600/photo%2B5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-86ozDrAO1V8/VJNc46oCJVI/AAAAAAAAAPo/IE5I5cK3G-M/s1600/photo%2B5.JPG" height="320" width="237" /></a></div>
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<b>All of The Above:</b><br />
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I rarely create a blend with just one of these techniques, more often using a rough thicker paint blend; such as wet blending, rough feathering or layering, and then over the top of that glazing. Also there needn't be a clear cut distinction between these techniques, if I'm layering and the previous coat in an area hasn't dried yet, nothing stops me from just taking my brush and wet blending there to smooth out the colours. Edge highlights can also really create some great looks when used with blending, the important thing is to experiment yourself to find what works when. These can definitely be tricky techniques, and particularly with glazing I wasn't happy with my results for a long while. <br />
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I'll give some picture examples of what edge technique combinations can work well:<br />
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Using glazes to soften edge highlights to look right for fabric:<br />
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From this:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6WTXxwXRJWM/VJNftyIP3tI/AAAAAAAAAP0/nsBiwwUWyMk/s1600/photo%2B3-1.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6WTXxwXRJWM/VJNftyIP3tI/AAAAAAAAAP0/nsBiwwUWyMk/s1600/photo%2B3-1.PNG" height="320" width="241" /></a></div>
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Using a rough feathered purple to green to build on and smooth with light and dark glazes up to white and down to near black:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H_T1bM6T6p0/VJNhH5vvFdI/AAAAAAAAAQY/3GROj4vzZHM/s1600/photo%2B6.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H_T1bM6T6p0/VJNhH5vvFdI/AAAAAAAAAQY/3GROj4vzZHM/s1600/photo%2B6.PNG" height="320" width="180" /></a></div>
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Using layering, then multiple edge highlighting to make those layers pop:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f2eSVwqbYdo/VJNiBWj6odI/AAAAAAAAAQg/4osjWlh5e0Q/s1600/photo%2B9.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f2eSVwqbYdo/VJNiBWj6odI/AAAAAAAAAQg/4osjWlh5e0Q/s1600/photo%2B9.PNG" height="225" width="320" /></a></div>
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I started off by talking about style, and how various artist are recognisable, I know i've tried quite a few but I don't think I really have a particular aesthetic yet that makes my work recognisable or maybe to others there is? I'd be interested to see any opinions people have in the comments.</div>
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Anyway, I hope this blending guide was useful, if you like leave a comment asking and I can add more depth on specific techniques I used on any of these models.</div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-86978759907197992672014-12-06T16:18:00.002-08:002014-12-06T16:18:34.109-08:00Magos Dominus Commission CompleteThis forge world 30k Mars Priest I've been painting for the last few weeks, the model will be a used as a greater daemon too fit in with being summoned by imperial 40k psykers. <br />
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There was A LOT of detail on this model and the face of the model isn't very visible so creating a focus for the eye to be drawn to on this model wasn't so straight forward. I instead tried to achieve that around the bright green OSL on and hand reaching through the ooze.<br />
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-80081325145434973622014-11-20T12:21:00.000-08:002014-11-20T12:21:23.042-08:00Green Armour Video Tutorial and Commission ProgressIts been a while since a post, university interviews and the like getting in the way of hobby a bit. The other thing being a big commission I've been working on! I know some painters don't see 20 models as a lot, but I've been wanting to blend every cape, and edge highlight every armour panel, so it really has been taking a while!<br />
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I did paint the gun arms, bodies and heads separately, so here's an image of what they're looking like so far with the main parts, head, robes and armour, done:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tLcG4P64_1c/VG5I3U_6ykI/AAAAAAAAALY/AHKjdYlEjSI/s1600/photo%2B2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tLcG4P64_1c/VG5I3U_6ykI/AAAAAAAAALY/AHKjdYlEjSI/s1600/photo%2B2.PNG" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RRTNUrARbC0/VG5I1aAuXNI/AAAAAAAAALQ/Ys17YN-AhP8/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RRTNUrARbC0/VG5I1aAuXNI/AAAAAAAAALQ/Ys17YN-AhP8/s1600/photo.JPG" height="259" width="400" /></a></div>
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I was asked a while ago to do a tutorial on how i do my green armour I've used in this project, as well as on my dark eldar. Here's an image of the torsos in rows of stages of completion, and a video on how I achieved the result. (Due to an awkward angle to allow the camera to see, the edge highlighting did need a bit more tidying up afterward than in the examples at the end) </div>
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<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxCWBCiFaDGHbpaL95mU9wq1IqIO48c0ifPPMuRSBeVErXcXBlpB6m3FtX2PVi20-Hd30YJRSgjv_r2UHT78g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-13100111333841882292014-10-12T09:36:00.000-07:002014-10-12T09:36:15.675-07:00Golden Demon 2014Here's my golden demon entry for this year, it got through the first cut, and after looking at some of the other awesome entries I'm sure I was nowhere near placing.<br />
I think the standard in all categories this year<br />
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was the highest I've seen, perhaps that's because of GD being only once a year now.<br />
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I finished the model at about 3 last night, and then had to pull together that base after the one I intended to use broke - badly. All in all it turned out not to bad in the end I think :p<br />
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Next post on the blog will be some robed imperial demons, and once that's done, I could make a nmm guide like on my nurgle lord, if anyone's interested.Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-90265695935714089772014-09-20T10:35:00.002-07:002014-09-20T10:35:42.806-07:00Quick and Easy Slime DripsI painted this unit a while ago and was the first time I put my experimenting with slime drips to use on a finished unit.<br />
I found it a surprisingly simple technique for the results.<br />
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First, get some cotton wool and pull apart a small pinch of strands:<br />
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Pull and roll between your fingers the strands to make a fibre:<br />
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Super glue one end of the strand to the model, and if the non glued end is fraying, I just used plastic cutters to remove a few millimetres.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hB6a_trI4Bw/VB25gojGrsI/AAAAAAAAAKE/yIMdPf4zGTY/s1600/b5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hB6a_trI4Bw/VB25gojGrsI/AAAAAAAAAKE/yIMdPf4zGTY/s1600/b5.jpeg" height="320" width="308" /></a></div>
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Next i just got a large brush, loaded it heavily with Nurgles Rot, and then dabbed it against the cotton wool strand to finish the look:<br />
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-87725726112454941902014-09-02T15:27:00.001-07:002014-09-02T15:27:16.826-07:00Red Cloak Painting GuideHere is my tutorial for red robes. Perhaps slightly trickier to follow since they weren't painted in a particularly regular way, but i'l sure try my best to explain.<br />
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First was a base coat of Mephiston Red, i applied two thinned coats.<br />
After this I shaded with red and purple washes, and then made my own wash from a black and red mix which i applied into the recesses.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gue86e3wTH8/VAY_6aSZ6HI/AAAAAAAAAJc/GNkX6D0_Dkg/s1600/photo%2B4.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gue86e3wTH8/VAY_6aSZ6HI/AAAAAAAAAJc/GNkX6D0_Dkg/s1600/photo%2B4.PNG" height="320" width="180" /></a></div>
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Next i thinned some paints with mater and lahmian medium to be a bit more concentrated than a regular glaze i'd use. I glazed the robes in highlight areas back up to mephiston red, and then up to a mix of wazzadakka and mephiston red.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4MbhJWSyOdA/VAY_49msy-I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/U9Mo_GyS_Qg/s1600/photo%2B2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4MbhJWSyOdA/VAY_49msy-I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/U9Mo_GyS_Qg/s1600/photo%2B2.PNG" height="320" width="180" /></a></div>
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I mix Lugganath orange with a small amount of wazzadakke red, and then do a fast and not too accurate edge highlight on all edges.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ko2ZuDWo7a0/VAY_4R1kDpI/AAAAAAAAAJM/pqEomKwLGhk/s1600/photo%2B3.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ko2ZuDWo7a0/VAY_4R1kDpI/AAAAAAAAAJM/pqEomKwLGhk/s1600/photo%2B3.PNG" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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I then glaze wazzadakka red, then wild rider red over the exposed highlight areas, whilst on the shadow's edge highlight i glaze the black and mephiston red mix.<br />
I continue these layers until the edge highlight blends into the other colours on the model.<br />
I then re-apply a thin and controlled edge highlight on the sharpest edges of the glazed area.<br />
Bellow is a model where this step has been applied to the bottom half only.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TUZk452ar5U/VAY_695ydFI/AAAAAAAAAJg/XVLD2cR-ET8/s1600/photo%2B5.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TUZk452ar5U/VAY_695ydFI/AAAAAAAAAJg/XVLD2cR-ET8/s1600/photo%2B5.PNG" height="320" width="180" /></a></div>
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The end result being red robes like this:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WbBvdVRLLLo/VAU_KjvmQdI/AAAAAAAAAJA/y_ulK-dmHQo/s1600/Flamers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WbBvdVRLLLo/VAU_KjvmQdI/AAAAAAAAAJA/y_ulK-dmHQo/s1600/Flamers.jpg" height="252" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-18854601740466215112014-09-01T20:56:00.003-07:002014-09-01T20:56:31.448-07:00Flamers - Demons / Imperial / ToxThese flame troopers from Anvil industries are a part of a commission I'm working on where these models are to be themed summoned demons to fit in with the fluff and aesthetic of an imperial army.<br />
The original models are fox flamer troopers from anvil industries, i whilst I do like hoe the scuply look, they are particularly fiddly to paint.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WbBvdVRLLLo/VAU_KjvmQdI/AAAAAAAAAI8/EYRRBjCtC3c/s1600/Flamers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WbBvdVRLLLo/VAU_KjvmQdI/AAAAAAAAAI8/EYRRBjCtC3c/s1600/Flamers.jpg" height="404" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tutorials are to follow, I've already lined up one for the slime drips for a future post, as for the red cloaks and other features of the models, are there any elements anyone would be interested in knowing how to recreate?Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-8904068160437094652014-07-27T16:45:00.000-07:002014-07-27T17:07:41.046-07:00Question CornerOn this blog there's a new page; question corner.<br />
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There, you may leave a comment(s) asking anything hobby (well - not airbrush stuff)<br />
And wI ill give a reply on the page, hopefully giving all the information you need.<br />
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As some of you may have noticed, my previous post was in response to a question on inks in the comments; if I feel there's a lot to say about the topic, it may make it to being a full blog post.<br />
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Remember, the only stupid question is the one that's never asked :p<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mx3zrc4aJ9s/U9WUPtj1tpI/AAAAAAAAAIo/FQWp8vVanRo/s1600/question-marks-whats-the-hold-up-pix.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mx3zrc4aJ9s/U9WUPtj1tpI/AAAAAAAAAIo/FQWp8vVanRo/s1600/question-marks-whats-the-hold-up-pix.png" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-71206254621985062172014-07-27T07:29:00.005-07:002014-07-27T16:21:32.044-07:00Runny Paints <b><u>Inks</u></b><br />
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Inks, washes, shades and glazes? Their differences are subtle, but using them in the right place can give great looking effects on your miniatures; this post is in response to a request regarding to alternatives to inks due to their tendency to rub off.<br />
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An Ink from the old GW paint range:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P7nB2s08_4s/U9UBQwr9qaI/AAAAAAAAAHo/6XXNX6CG96Q/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+14.32.24.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P7nB2s08_4s/U9UBQwr9qaI/AAAAAAAAAHo/6XXNX6CG96Q/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+14.32.24.png" height="320" width="209" /></a></div>
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Inks are now available from most art stores and some miniatures paint companies, this Daler Rowley ink I used for my very fast painted 20 minute plaguebearers, not a bad result for just a wash over a white undercoat:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iouMpeBSogM/U9T-SiQvEvI/AAAAAAAAAG4/52dTnWFh0nw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+14.16.37.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iouMpeBSogM/U9T-SiQvEvI/AAAAAAAAAG4/52dTnWFh0nw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+14.16.37.png" height="320" width="225" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QFs_1NXGu8k/U9T-VrppJ3I/AAAAAAAAAHY/dAgMqI-PPBM/s1600/plaguebearer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QFs_1NXGu8k/U9T-VrppJ3I/AAAAAAAAAHY/dAgMqI-PPBM/s1600/plaguebearer.jpg" height="320" width="187" /></a></div>
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Inks tend to be thicker than the washes / shades that GW now produces, inks tint the surface as well as collect in recesses. Inks are used to shade a model, or change the hue of an area on the model; here are some alternative ways to achieve these effects:<br />
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<b><u>Glazes</u></b><br />
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Well, they're slow - painting larger areas with them can takes ages! (Unless you take some good blending shortcuts - possibly a future post?)<br />
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However, done right they can give those shifts in colour even better and smoother than inks!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDETMrC-aLw/U9UEKNbfI8I/AAAAAAAAAH0/G05Qd0B6EEU/s1600/477943_md-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDETMrC-aLw/U9UEKNbfI8I/AAAAAAAAAH0/G05Qd0B6EEU/s1600/477943_md-.jpg" height="297" width="400" /></a></div>
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<u>How to Glaze:</u><br />
<b>The Medium Way:</b> Paint + mix in equal amounts of water and GW lahmian medium - for getting the right consistency, see the hand test for glazes here: (http://equinoxpainting.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/handy-painting.html)<br />
- Then just go ahead and apply the thinned paint in layers on the part of the model you want tinted that colour - eventually the colour builds up softly without any complex technique - just time consuming.<br />
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<u>Slightly Less Smooth But Much Faster Glaze Method:</u><br />
<b>The Water Way:</b> Paint + water - for getting the right consistency, see the hand test for glazes here: (http://equinoxpainting.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/handy-painting.html)<br />
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And for water glazes i apply in a slightly different way - more feathering as shown in this video: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=484340208336878<br />
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<b><u>Make Your Own Shading Liquids</u></b><br />
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Essentially the same as for a medium glaze, with the exception that instead of medium using this stuff:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kHX8f53LnFA/U9UIA26-45I/AAAAAAAAAIA/gpSMcF3fcJU/s1600/flow+improver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kHX8f53LnFA/U9UIA26-45I/AAAAAAAAAIA/gpSMcF3fcJU/s1600/flow+improver.jpg" /></a></div>
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From there, add more or less water, more water will make a thinner mix - a wash to mostly just affect the recesses, whilst less will make an ink which will tint the surface of the model more as well as shade the recesses.<br />
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Model's flesh has been washed purple twice:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0fj9U1Oghg/U9ULnIjg8JI/AAAAAAAAAIM/C6eF3Z20h88/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+15.23.37.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0fj9U1Oghg/U9ULnIjg8JI/AAAAAAAAAIM/C6eF3Z20h88/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+15.23.37.png" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Alternatively, if the whole runny paint thing just isnt for you, theres always suing lines to paint in the darkest lines of your model, for these fire warrior legs i used a dark blue with black pain to give the less smooth crisper highlights between armour plates.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E4pWqETg9dM/U9UMOM6i9dI/AAAAAAAAAIU/m450FE_YQqc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+14.23.36.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E4pWqETg9dM/U9UMOM6i9dI/AAAAAAAAAIU/m450FE_YQqc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-27+at+14.23.36.png" height="160" width="400" /></a></div>
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This can be a tricky technique requiring more brush control than inks or shades - but still doable with a bit of patience.<br />
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-9642927345875558942014-07-23T21:39:00.002-07:002014-07-23T21:39:46.873-07:00Warzone Weathering Part 2Whilst my last post showed a lot of different types of weathering, this post will be a more of a "how to" article, for some of the most effective techniques I didn't address in my previous post.<br />
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<b><u>Tears:</u></b><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cC_3cRxO6_E/U9BfbczZEjI/AAAAAAAAAF0/NIZpjYHZGog/s1600/a1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cC_3cRxO6_E/U9BfbczZEjI/AAAAAAAAAF0/NIZpjYHZGog/s1600/a1.png" height="400" width="253" /></a></div>
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After the base coat of very dark grey, I applied a lighter faded grey to the edges and scuffed areas and then highlighted these areas by adding a tiny amount of white into the grey mix.<br />
The small rips in the fabric are painted on, firstly with a darker line (pure black in this case), and then bellow and above apply a thin lighter line.<br />
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In this case i used abaddon black, eshin grey and some white to mix in, but the same principle can be done with any other starting colour.<br />
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<b><u>Armour Chips / Scratches</u></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o5iwUURr9EI/U9BfhswpIWI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/0TzIHpAVh7w/s1600/a4.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o5iwUURr9EI/U9BfhswpIWI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/0TzIHpAVh7w/s1600/a4.png" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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The method is very similar as for scratches, except the thin highlight goes just underneath the dark line. Also, applying small dots of pure white sparingly at points some points under chips, can give a metal surface a more reflective appearance.<br />
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For both tears and scratches, a brush with a good sharp point is important to get the lines thin,<br />
the rest is brush control, something which will improve with the more time spent painting.<br />
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<b><u>Rust - Quick And Easy Without Powders</u></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cseMCrzzWUc/U9BfcEV5RZI/AAAAAAAAAGA/PetDin9Pi3Q/s1600/a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cseMCrzzWUc/U9BfcEV5RZI/AAAAAAAAAGA/PetDin9Pi3Q/s1600/a2.jpg" height="252" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGyrKjfcOCs/U9BfdrkUMCI/AAAAAAAAAGI/2m8KwC3nTaE/s1600/a3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGyrKjfcOCs/U9BfdrkUMCI/AAAAAAAAAGI/2m8KwC3nTaE/s1600/a3.jpg" height="290" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Plague Hulk legs used a textured rust technique which can be done very messily to still give good results, I used either a Large brush (LB) or Tank Dry Brush (TDB) for all stages.<br />
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Basecoat Rhinox hide (LB)<br />
Rough Application Of Blackfire Earth Texture Paint all over (TDB)<br />
Generous wash of Agrax Earthshade (TDB)<br />
Drybrush of Squig Orange (TDB)<br />
(optional) Light Drybrush of Troll Slayer Orange (TDB)<br />
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Using a hairdryer for the base coat and wash can make this a very rapid technique, particularly for applying to larger models.<br />
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<br />Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-7593317194926387352014-07-22T01:42:00.000-07:002014-07-22T01:42:08.161-07:00Warzone WeatheringWhilst I'm visiting here in Australian winter, 12 degrees and rain, i figured i'd do a post about weathering (the painting kind).<div>
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Weathering can really make otherwise clean soldiers seem a part of the rough trials and tribulations in the fray of battle.</div>
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<b><u>Grime</u></b></div>
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Firstly, warriors and machines may get coated in the grime of battle, here's how I weathered a soul grinder leg for a base.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QK5VJoaHSKw/U84Uj5o__EI/AAAAAAAAAEs/isLsO6ibcZw/s1600/soul+grinder+leg.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QK5VJoaHSKw/U84Uj5o__EI/AAAAAAAAAEs/isLsO6ibcZw/s1600/soul+grinder+leg.png" height="295" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used a Agrax Earthshade wash applied where i wanted a streak of grime, then applied the effects paint typhus corrosion, it's very quick and quite effective.</div>
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<b><u>Textiles</u></b></div>
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Whilst metals will often be darkened when worn out, cloth can often become lightened were its become frayed, or where dust / dried mud deposits, the bottom of capes / elbows / knees can often be made a lighter brown compared with the rest of the fabric (as in this photo of Jayden Howell's model)</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NBvXQj4_Kjc/U84YniZK2dI/AAAAAAAAAE4/qCks9vK_l08/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-22+at+04.40.34.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NBvXQj4_Kjc/U84YniZK2dI/AAAAAAAAAE4/qCks9vK_l08/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-22+at+04.40.34.png" height="320" width="296" /></a></div>
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For blending these close colours, see - "Handy Painting" my previous post.</div>
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<b><u>Rust</u></b></div>
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<b>Powders</b></div>
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Weathering powders are often a good easy way to go for rust, they capture the dry texture of rust.</div>
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If you plan to game with the model, you'll need to seal in the powder with a matte varnish, although it can dull the effect a bit.</div>
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The base coat for the powders to go will effect the brightness / how fresh the rust looks. </div>
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What appearance works for you is a matter of preference, hopefully these photos will give an idea what different combinations can achieve:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3mtQZn-C8ls/U84aQ4ZAMTI/AAAAAAAAAFE/0HoCJxpSBO0/s1600/cannon.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3mtQZn-C8ls/U84aQ4ZAMTI/AAAAAAAAAFE/0HoCJxpSBO0/s1600/cannon.png" height="320" width="268" /></a></div>
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Cannon done with Forgeworld Rust Powder over warlock bronze base coat, sealed with purity seal.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bdwH1aTZD7w/U84bSwv3qzI/AAAAAAAAAFM/2M79DK2NKiI/s1600/axe+rust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bdwH1aTZD7w/U84bSwv3qzI/AAAAAAAAAFM/2M79DK2NKiI/s1600/axe+rust.jpg" height="289" width="320" /></a></div>
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Rust powder over silver base coat, not sealed with any varnish.</div>
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<u><b>Blue!</b></u></div>
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Whilst iron rusts orange, copper and some other metals will develop verdigris, green-ish blue, whilst no metals i know of tarnish blue AND orange, sometimes with nurgle models i use both just for the contrast.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fd2yLTL6l8g/U84ihkirCwI/AAAAAAAAAFc/qmshoSMBuec/s1600/blue+and+orange+rust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fd2yLTL6l8g/U84ihkirCwI/AAAAAAAAAFc/qmshoSMBuec/s1600/blue+and+orange+rust.jpg" height="209" width="320" /></a></div>
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In general, i'd say add medium to a bluish green if its on a flat surface. If you're planning to add verdigris to recesses, Nihilakh Oxide is great.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-waCnNhivUyM/U84jIehkrdI/AAAAAAAAAFk/dPczoHwAWUI/s1600/verdegris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-waCnNhivUyM/U84jIehkrdI/AAAAAAAAAFk/dPczoHwAWUI/s1600/verdegris.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-waCnNhivUyM/U84jIehkrdI/AAAAAAAAAFk/dPczoHwAWUI/s1600/verdegris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;">(this model not painted by me)</span></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-waCnNhivUyM/U84jIehkrdI/AAAAAAAAAFk/dPczoHwAWUI/s1600/verdegris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-waCnNhivUyM/U84jIehkrdI/AAAAAAAAAFk/dPczoHwAWUI/s1600/verdegris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></a></div>
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Well, that concludes this post, there could be a weathering techniques part 2, if anyone's interested?</div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-14644788262567018912014-07-19T14:51:00.001-07:002014-07-19T15:35:39.529-07:00Handy Painting After a painting session my hand will very often end up looking like this;<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ujhiES1EMwE/U8rU-vq9drI/AAAAAAAAADs/VnL6zCzfpRs/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ujhiES1EMwE/U8rU-vq9drI/AAAAAAAAADs/VnL6zCzfpRs/s1600/1.JPG" height="276" width="320" /></a></div>
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I hope to explain in this post, why this isn't quite as insane as it may seem, and also how a hand can be invaluable tool in any miniature painter's arsenal.<br />
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Sometimes, when you're blending two similar colours (e.g. red to purple), a cheat shortcut can be taken.<br />
The internet will almost always suggest glazing, wet blending, or two brush blending to get a smooth gradient, whilst i too mostly use them, the sneaky thumb smudge can save ages sometimes!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nV3pHZF4-mk/U8rkD8zcgRI/AAAAAAAAAEc/Y1FTOhHMvB8/s1600/ab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nV3pHZF4-mk/U8rkD8zcgRI/AAAAAAAAAEc/Y1FTOhHMvB8/s1600/ab.jpg" height="163" width="200" /></a></div>
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The OSL on this riptide's gun on the purple, was done by applying orange paint, thumb smudging, and repeating that a couple of times to get the gradient, then just painting in solid orange, the edge closest the light source.<br />
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*Slight warning with this technique: It will only work with certain close colours and often only on small flat areas, however I use it occasionally when I can since its just so good at time saving!<br />
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Secondly, the hand is a good test for consistency, if I'm making a glaze to colour a part of a model, building up a good blend needs each paint layer to be translucent and thin enough to apply. My surefire test I use, is to apply the thinned paint to the side of my thumb; it should flow into the lines of your hand and only lightly tint raised areas between the lines. If it all flows into the recesses, it needs to be thicker, whilst if it produces a too solid line, i know to add more medium. <br />
To me, tissue paper or a pallet is no comparison, they won't demonstrate the effect the glaze strength will have on raises and recesses in the same way.<br />
Plus, this quick check will allow me to easily remove excess fluid from the bristles before applying to the model.<br />
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Some recent glazing I was quite pleased with:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7XKlJP-CU-0/U8rVD3lk16I/AAAAAAAAAEM/eAHBZHhtW2Y/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7XKlJP-CU-0/U8rVD3lk16I/AAAAAAAAAEM/eAHBZHhtW2Y/s1600/5.JPG" height="400" width="245" /></a></div>
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I always find painting the blood effects on a miniature, can be the most satisfying part of the process. Im sure many warriors in the 41st millennium often dismember an enemy to find a spray of blood explode in all directions. Awesome gore, so how to do it on your models? I use red and gloss varnish mix (although the GW Blood for the Blood God effects paint works too)<br />
Chop the bristles short on an old brush, apply paint, pull back on the bristles and letting loose<br />
<span style="text-align: center;">splatters of gore onto the surface you aim at.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrTvG2NuZjg/U8rVENoSRZI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/-H-YnYpXrZI/s1600/2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrTvG2NuZjg/U8rVENoSRZI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/-H-YnYpXrZI/s1600/2.PNG" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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Another experiment i tried was to use my finger's texture to lightly apply an uneven soft patch of blue, to make a nebulae pattern on parts of this razor wing jet fighter:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W4r0mNxhzqU/U8rVC7MyhaI/AAAAAAAAAD8/1tKvBo83cMc/s1600/3.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W4r0mNxhzqU/U8rVC7MyhaI/AAAAAAAAAD8/1tKvBo83cMc/s1600/3.PNG" height="400" width="281" /></a></div>
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What hand uses have you found for your own painting?<br />
Has anyone been convinced by this post to try out any of these techniques?Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-38672041626095628982014-07-17T16:03:00.002-07:002014-07-17T16:29:36.981-07:00Blogging, Bases and Bilbo!<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 13px;">
Before as just an information site for my commission painting, this site is now going to finally becoming a fully fledged blog. Hopefully this post will give an idea of the sort of content.</div>
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So, bases. Last year I made this:</div>
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It took a while getting the river of slime, using gloss varnish, liquid green stuff and a few green paints. Now, in half the time i can get a very similar result with Nurgle's Rot, that newer GW effects paint for slime. Here's some I did yesterday in preparation for a commission; </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MvLvvRGnLzo/U8hZICqZhVI/AAAAAAAAADQ/HsFy4fxPkW0/s1600/g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MvLvvRGnLzo/U8hZICqZhVI/AAAAAAAAADQ/HsFy4fxPkW0/s1600/g.jpg" height="143" width="320" /></a></div>
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I alternated layers of Nurgles Rot with layers of Moot Green mixed with 'Ard Coat, and churned out 20 in little over an hour and a half. The runny gloop can take ages to dry, so best to do it on a sunny day when you can leave them outside.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0BmrsiwW-iQ/U8hZFPA-vpI/AAAAAAAAADI/kM0SrHQbuG8/s1600/f.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0BmrsiwW-iQ/U8hZFPA-vpI/AAAAAAAAADI/kM0SrHQbuG8/s1600/f.png" height="244" width="320" /></a></div>
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Moral of the story, if you want to try slime or are a nurgle inclined heretic such as myself, get yourself a pot of Nurgles Rot.</div>
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Plus, let me know which bases you prefer.</div>
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Another basing experiment i've tried recently has been with cork, most tutorials I've found use cork board, which means buying and waiting for it to arrive;</div>
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So, from some experimenting, i found using a bread knife to cut uneven slices from a bottle cork, then hand peeling off the edges of each disk gives realistic slate rocks which you can then drybrush, i'll let the pictures explain:<br />
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Some painting; a hobbit; and my Lord of The Ring's fangirl girlfriend later, a bilbo appears:</div>
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Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6566838318943572849.post-54154955159537509162013-10-26T17:02:00.000-07:002013-10-26T17:25:50.068-07:00About Equinox PaintingI've been painting miniatures a few years now, at first for fun then more recently i have been doing a few local commissions for friends or ebay selling character models. Now, i'm opening up this commission service to more than just a few. Here will be a place where you can see my completed tasks, works in progress and contact me if you feel you'd like your models looking like any of those on here. Also, feel free to drop a comment asking for tutorials or advice, happy to help and i may make a video tutorial from time to time.<br />
Feel free to have a look through the gallery.Olimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901249501029038361noreply@blogger.com0